Bali guide › North and east Bali
What is there to see in north and east Bali, and for how long?
If you have already done the south and Ubud, the north and east are the natural next step: fewer people, mountain roads, a big volcano, dark sea and villages where life goes on as usual. This is the Bali you look for when you have heard too many car horns, or want to get away from the coffee shops.
Let's go round that half of the island, from west to east:
- Munduk: mountains, waterfalls and coffee, in the (relative) coolness of the highlands.
- Lovina: a black-sand beach (not the island's prettiest, but unspoilt), and the dolphins that visit every day at dawn.
- Amed and Tulamben: diving, snorkelling, the Liberty wreck and views of Mount Agung.
- Lempuyang and Tirta Gangga: the “Gates of Heaven” (probably the island's most famous postcard shot) and a former water palace.
- Sidemen: rice terraces and weaving.
- Candidasa: a small seaside resort with hardly any beach left (eaten away by erosion), but a calm, relaxed atmosphere and lovely rice-field scenery inland.
- Padangbai: the small harbour and seaside resort where boats leave for the Gili Islands.
Journeys are long. From the airport, allow 2.5 to 3 hours to Munduk and Lovina, about 2 hours 45 minutes to Amed, 2.5 hours to Sidemen and 1.5 to 2 hours to Padangbai. Mountain roads are winding, so a private driver is the calmest option (roughly 450,000 to 700,000 IDR a day, or $25 to $39), and a scooter is for experienced riders only (as everywhere on the island, to be honest).
How many days? To do the loop without rushing, allow 4 to 6 days, with 1 or 2 nights at each stop. If your time is limited, you can concentrate on Amed and Sidemen. On budget, there is good news: accommodation on the north coast and in Amed is among the cheapest on the island.
Verdict: the best answer to “where is the real Bali?” for people who like to drive, walk and watch. If you have under a week in total, pick two stops rather than all seven.
Tip: do the circuit in one direction, so you don't retrace your steps. For example, go up via Munduk, come down the east side and finish at Padangbai if you are heading on to the Gilis. The dry season, from April to October, is the most comfortable.
- See places to stay in Amed, with reviews and availabilitypartner link · Stay22 (opens in a new tab)
- See places to stay in Sidemen, with reviews and availabilitypartner link · Stay22 (opens in a new tab)
- See places to stay in Munduk, with reviews and availabilitypartner link · Stay22 (opens in a new tab)
Journey times are approximate, by car from the airport, checked in October 2026.
More landmarks in this section
- What is there to do in Munduk?
- Lovina: is the dolphin trip worth doing, and is it ethical?
- Amed and Tulamben: what to do, and can you snorkel the Liberty?
- Are Lempuyang's Gates of Heaven worth it, and when to go?
- Why stay in Sidemen instead of Ubud?
- How do you reach the Gili Islands from Bali?
- What is there to do in Candidasa, and should you stay?
- What to do in Pemuteran: snorkelling, Biorock and Menjangan?